Thursday, December 11, 2014

WHAT IS A TYROLEAN HAT? updated 1/10/15

The Tyrolean hat (also Bavarian hat or Alpine hat) originally came from the Tyrol in the Alps, in what is now part of Austria and Italy.
A typical Tyrolean hat originally had a crown tapering to a point and was made of green fur felt with a brim roughly the width of a hand, something that was especially common in the Zillertal Valley.

feather pin available at www.orvis.com

There are various forms of Tyrolean hat. Frequently the hats are decorated with a colored, corded hatband and a spray of flowers, feathers or "brush" at the side of the crown. The traditional "brush" is made of the tail of the chamois goat. It takes a variety of forms, and may often be combined with feathers.
1/10/15. An update on the side brush from my retired colleague Mr. Jack Lambert, an aficionado on hats.
"Regarding the side “brush”,  the originals were badger fur. That was a badge of honor for the young man who came of age. His parent gifted him a sterling silver holder pin that was empty. After his first hunt as a “man” he cut off a piece of the animal fur and then was able to stick it in the holder (from his parents) and place it on the side of his hat. Not unlike the feathers worn by Indians for counting coup.  If he killed a badger, a very nasty critter, he was honored as a very good and brave hunter.  It became known as a Badge of honor."
BILTMORE'S TYROLEAN HAT available at www.hollandhats.com

The Tyrolean hat became even more well known thanks to Edward VIII who, after his abdication, frequently stayed in Austria and often wore a hat of Tyrolean style, although it did not come from there.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, Tyrolean peasant clothing developed a certain degree of uniformity in their appearance. In the local village costumes of the Tyrol, the various styles of Tyrolean hat have survived since the 1830s/40s, albeit similar to those of contemporary fashion. These original forms vary from the tall, relatively narrow-brimmed hats of North Tyrol which were dented on top, to the small, wide-brimmed hats of the South Tyrolean wine country.

Another celebrity who vacationed in the Tyrolean Alps was Coco Chanel. Fashion myth as it, that her classic boucle jacket was inspired from a similar jacket that she saw on a "lift-boy" while staying at the Schloss Mittersill hotel.
For the Chanel pre fall 2015, M├ętiers D'Art collection, the designer Karl Lagerfeld took his inspiration from the Alpine Chanel mythology. The Metiers D'Art collection, is an off-season show to highlight the artisan skills of the ateliers, which the house of Chanel has saved from closure in 2002.
It was a solid collection of embroidered Lederhosen and loden jackets topped off with Tyrolean inspired hats adorned with massive plumes. The hats are by the atelier Maison Michel.









 




Sunday, December 7, 2014

PANTONE'S COLOR OF THE YEAR

Pantone announced this week that MARSALA is the color of the year for 2015.




Pantone started issuing "color of the year" in 1999. It is announced with much fanfare and is a terrific free advertising tool for the company. They get free advertising spots everywhere, from The Wall Street Journal to CNBC. Before the "color of the year" campaign few American house holds even knew what a pattone color was.
Pantone is a great global company but the fanfare surrounding the "color of the year" is a little like the release of Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivee. Its good plonk, but there is much better plonk out there for the same price.
Interestingly,  my S15 hat orders are in production and not one major USA customer even mentioned Marsala as the must-have-color.
Here are the announced Pantone "colors of the year" since 1999.

Colors of the Year
  • 2013 - Emerald
  • 2014 - Radiant Orchid
  • 2015 - Marsala

                  I much prefer the Women's Wear Daily color forecast that came out on 9/4/2014. The report shows you the color designers are actually using by percentage =. Yes, Marsala is there, but at #9 for both women and mens forecast.
WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY LADIES TOP 2015 COLOR
WOMEN'S WEAR DAILY MENS TOP COLORS FOR 2015


Thursday, December 4, 2014

LADY GAGA SEES RED

A little red is seasonal, but lets not go over board and end up looking like a fake red Christmas tree. Tony Bennet totally pulls of the gentleman look, accessorizing with a red scarf.

GAG(a) me red
Lady Gaga was overwhelmed with grief/joy/hormones when she finally sees herself on a Times Square, NYC, billboard for H&M.
Lady Gaga uncrowned

GAGA as Phantom of the Opera

IS THE RED SHELLAC COMING OFF THE HAT OR IS THAT A BLEMISH ON THE NOSE?

Russian head warmers

In the epically freezing, bleak and dark winter days of Moscow, it is had to look radiant and chic. Dressing becomes more about survival, rather than a glamorous catwalk. But here and there, perched on the back of heads, like springtime shoots or Easter cactus blossoms, are hand-knitted woolly hats, mostly worn by middle aged women. In a bleak and grey landscape, they whisper for a little attention for the wearer.
Russian artist Olga Chernysheva reveals the poetic power of these knitted "tea-cozies", that seem to whisper, "I will help you survive until springs warmth arrives".

The back of the head series, forms the main body of work by Olga Chernysheva at the PACE LONDON until January, 17th 2015.
www.pacegallery.com

OLGA CHERNYSHEVA at PACE GALLERY LONDON
The wearers are not aware that they were being photographed and Olga never asked for permission to take the photographs. This makes the photos even more interesting and leaves the observer wondering. What did the wearer look like? Did she knit the hat herself? Where was she going?